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STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS?
Rick Stivers wrote: Hi Guys, Last night I removed my back bumper, rear fenders, and bed skirts form my pickup. Both fenders and one skirt had stress cracks that I had welded closed this morning. Rust between the bed and fenders was starting to pit but I think I caught it before it got too bad. After I repaint this, do you think it would be ok to make a rubber gasket to fit in between them to prevent the paint from rubbing off or do you think it would cause more rust. I had also thought about putting a sealer or calk of some type in there instead.
Most of my bolts broke off when I tried to take them off, which is ok because I wanted to replace them anyway. I was thinking about replacing them with stainless steel bolts. This would make removing them so much easier and will only cost me about twice as much to buy. My questions are will the stainless cause dissimilar metal corrosion when the bolts wear through the paint from vibration and will paint stick to the stainless or will it flake off? Does it need a special preparation?
James Roney wrote: I use the same material that the Germans used for 20 years on the Volkswagen. The material between the fender and body works great on the pickup fenders. The Volkswagen fender welting is really cheap, and long enough.
I love the stainless bolts. 304 or 316 take paint just fine, and will eventually rust when in contact with iron, but you'll be happy you spent the money.
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Eric wrote: Hi All, Just wondering if anyone out there has a good idea for temporary paint spray booth. I am getting ready to do the finish coat on my 54 SDDL and I really don't want to get dust ,dirt ,or debris on it. I was thinking about using 1" pcv and plastic sheets.
Mitch Utsey responded: sounds good, Don't forget to wet down the floor about half an hour before starting to paint. It settles the dust. Wear a good mask, not just a paper one.
Rick Stivers wrote: Some of these quick paint places do OK, but you have to be careful about mixing product brands of paint supplies. If you decide to let them paint the truck, find out what brand of paint they will be using and only use that brand in your prep- work. Many of these brands are incompatible. I've seen cross mixing of brands cause paint to peal, crack, and bubble. I once worked at a MAPCO (Small Chain) and they would give a very nice paint job if you did the prep and supplied them the paint. If you didn't supply it, you had to pick between one of their 20 colors they bought in 55 gal drums.
If you plan to paint it yourself, I suggest you obtain a copy of "How To Paint Your Car" published by MBI Publishing Company. Written by David H. Jacobs Jr. It cost about $20. It probably gets a little more in depth than you need but what the heck. There are actually hundreds of books on the subject in print. Just make sure to get one that is up to date.
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WILLYS TRUCK COVER
Chris wrote: Has anyone come across a pre-fitted indoor or out door cover for their pickup? The closest new truck I found with similar dimensions is the Dodge Dakota.
Jerry Adams wrote: I don't know if they actually make a cover that is an exact fit for your particular vehicle, but I would like to recommend the truck covers made by "Falcon." I purchased one about two years ago for my 1976 F150. It fit pretty good, and seems like it will last forever. I know it won't of course, but it is still going strong while the other car covers I bought last about a year. It cost $150 for one to fit a full sized pickup. The pastor of our church is a member of "Price-Cosco" which is a discount club sort of thing here in Southern California. He got mine for me at a PC in the LA area.
I am pretty sure that Falcon has an 800 number, but I can't find it right now. I suggest that you try calling the 800 information operator (1-800-555-1212) and ask them if they have a number listed for the Falcon Manufacturing Company.
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HOW HEAVY IS THE PICKUP BED?
Rick Stivers wrote: I'm going to take the bed off of my truck tomorrow and would like to have some idea how much it weighs. Can two people do the job or will I need to find two more?
Scott Little wrote: 2 people can do it no problem. If you paint it up all nice you might want extra people to put it back on just so no paint gets scratched.
Matt Phillimore wrote: My dad and I picked mine up and moved it last weekend, but it took three to get it off, one on the back , and one at either front corner. It's not too bad, though.
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Chris Croyle wrote: Rick, I went down the road too last year with the curved glass. I called almost every possible glass place around. I learned there are 2 or 3 manufacturers in the USA that make these windshields and just a handful of big main warehouses that store the windshield. I had located one in Ohio and one in Arizona. The local glass dealers were getting flack from the main warehouses because they got so many phone calls, they passed the word for me to stop pricing it out. My ultimate deal was Diamond Auto Glass. I think they are a national franchise. So I my deal came to $342.81 installed with a lifetime leak warranty and a guarantee that they would replace if it broke during installation. The Nags part # DW00580 GTNN. I hope your local glass company will replace it free if they break it.
James Roney wrote: I installed a piece of curved windshield glass into my 1965 Sunbeam Tiger in the summer of 1988. I got the (then) impossible to find glass in good condition from a salvage yard. I ordered a new rubber gasket and a quart of WD-40. It was immediately obvious that the windshield glass was way too large to fit in the frame, so I complained to the seller, but he would not take it back. I then told the rubber supplier that his gasket was the wrong size. He asked if I tried to install it, and then he wouldn't take it back. I worked on that windshield for 4 hours. I soaped, measured, slapped, pushed and pulled. I took the windshield frame off of the car. I was absolutely satisfied that the windshield was too large.
A buddy of mine came over and slobbered my WD-40 all over the rubber. He then took a piece of sash cord and roped it around the windshield / gasket assembly. He started in one corner, and one smooth and continuous motion pulled the cord out of the gasket and the windshield popped into the frame. It fit perfectly, and looked great. The whole show took maybe 5 minutes. I made him take it back out so that I could try. He thought I was an idiot. I swear that the glass grew when he pushed it back out. Using his technique, and many attempts, I finally got it back in. I was very proud of myself.
He said it would have been better if I didn't F*## with it. I hate him...
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Jeff Gent wrote: I had a very productive weekend. Besides a lot of cleanup/organization of the shop I managed to finally get the body off. Now I can really concentrate of the driveline. There were some questions a while back on how to get the body off intact. It was very straight forward with most of the effort just in the preparation (which I did most of some time ago). I removed all the doors and windows, disconnect all of the wee bits (wires, cables, etc) and remove all the big things (steering wheel, tranny shifter, seats, fenders, grill, and hood). Then all I had to do was take out the body mount bolts (that went easier than I thought) and lift the body off. I was able to do this by myself by tying slings around the four corner posts and using two hoists to my rafters (one to the front and one to the rear). Twelve foot rafters were a big help. The only thing was to go slow and work the brake/clutch pedals out through the hole (I wasn't able to get the steering gear up out of the hole until after the pedals went down). The tires were on dollies so once the body was up I could just slide the chassis sideways out from under it and then lower the body down onto blocks. By the way, those dollies are the ones from Harbor Freight, very nice but plan on replacing all the bolts with grade 5. They've come in quite handy. I then made a wood frame and connected it to some body mounts so the body now sits on those dollies so I can move it out of the way. The chassis is very easy to move now with just a single floor jack.
Wow. What a difference. Setting up the motor/tranny, etc will be much easier and I'm glad the body when off so easily as I'll have to put it on/off several times before I'm done. I'll be able to do the body work much easier as well with the frame out of the way. I also mocked up an SOA a couple weekends back by just parking the springs of top of the tubes and I was rather pleased that it doesn't make the wagon look like it had a testosterone overdose. It's obviously lifted but not too bad. That's with the 31" tires the PO put on it.
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NEW RUBBER OR VASECTOMY
MVP The Herb Farm wrote: With the help of my brother I was able to remove all the side glass from my '53 Wagon last weekend. Does anyone have any tips on how to get the two windows out of the tailgate. I figured I would try Bernie's method--lots of straight dishwashing detergent and a thin screwdriver. Should I pry the rubber from the inside or outside of the tailgate. Any tips would be appreciated.
It looks like I am going to have to replace all the rubber and slide channels for every window. After 50 years the rubber is brittle and the slide channels have lost their felt. Any one found the best price on these--Carl Walck has them all for around $400:
Windshield Weatherstrip $50.00 X1 $50.00
Glass Channel Kit, Door $22.50 X2 $45.00
Door Weatherstrip Seal $16.50 X2 $33.00
Vertical Wing Window Seal $12.00 X2 $24.00
Side Sliding Window Rubber $25.00 X2 $50.00
Side Sliding Window Channel $19.00 X2 $38.00
Side Rear Window Rubber $25.00 X2 $50.00
Tailgate Window Rubber $20.00 X2 $40.00
Vent Window Rubber (set of 2) $47.60 X1 $47.60
Tailgate Seal Kit $20.00 X1 $20.00
You guys with the MJ's and CJ's have it made with only the front windshield to deal with. Although I guess those canvas tops don't come cheap. My Dad always told me not to get cheap rubber, but for $400 I should be able to get a vasectomy.
Rick Stivers responded: If you are replacing the rubber on the tailgate anyway I would remove the windows by cutting the window retaining lip off. I recommend never prying anywhere near old (or even new) glass. Too much pressure and you'rr buying a new piece.
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PAINT STRIPPING AND RUST PREVENTION
Vern Heywood wrote: Last weekend, West Coast Willys had an outing in my neck of the woods. They met at the Peterson Automotive museum. It was pretty cool to see so many vehicles all in one place. OK, there were only about 10, but I've only seen about 5 in a 200 square mile area around my house in the last year. We went to get ideas, and the vehicles really varied as to how they were built. There were full restorations to custom rods. My favorite was probably a green pick- up...it appeared to be all original and very mint. Sorry, not familiar with the different body styles to be able to ID what year. Most radical was a wagon on Corvette running gear, including front and rear suspension. My '49 station wagon has been sitting since I bought it last November while I've been trying to decide what to do with it. Originally I thought I would take the body off and put it on a 4WD frame. But, now I realize, it's OK to only have 2WD, they still look pretty cool, regardless if they have a transfer case or not. It was very inspiring! I couldn't wait to get home and begin working on my own!
So, the work has begun! I've started with stripping the paint. Unfortunately, it does not look like there was any prep work on the last four of it's eight paint jobs. It's bad! I'm using Aircraft Remover as someone suggested and I'm having to apply it about three to four times to get down to a smooth surface. This removes about 2 coats of paint per application. I've also removed the cracked and rotting fiberglass fender flares that were installed and found some nasty rot underneath all along the raised band around the wheel well. I expected it there, so I'm neither surprised or discouraged. Any tips on speeding up the paint removing process and on repairing the body rot would be greatly appreciated. Now we find out how well I inspected the rest of the body!
Ray Johnson wrote: I'd like to get some advice on how to remove the rust from the bottom of my 53 wagon body and what process or products are recommended thereafter. I have removed the body from the frame and am planning to sandblast it myself. I've used Extend for neutralizing-sealing residual rust but haven't been impressed with the long term result or the price. Is there any better/cheaper alternative? After sealing the rust what process or products work best? I assume the same techniques will work for the frame? Thanks
MVP The Herb Farm wrote: I don't know if this product is cheaper, but try Por-15, They have a full line of rust preventatives/sealers and their Web site has some detailed instructions for removing rust and using their products. http://www.por15.com
Glenn Dudley wrote: I've also heard good things written about Corroless in several of my restoration magazines. Seems to do the same kind of thing as POR-15. They both say you don't have to get down to bare metal but if you go through the trouble of getting that close, why not play it safe.
I've also seen a frame powder-coated but that's a lot more expensive.
Rand wrote: Vern.....I'm not so sure that using a striper is such a good Idea, I've been working on aircraft for quite some time and have seen this stuff used, mostly is like a caustic soda, the stuff is corrosive if not neutralized when completed. I own a 50 pickup that I'm doing a frame off restro of and I have chosen sandblasting over chems. The roof for example looks like its spot-welded around the rain channels that to me is a great place for your stripper to run and get trapped between the two layers. If not removed will cause it to rust. I know blasting is messy but if your vehicle . wasn't prepped good to begin with you will find small pockets of cancer all over the place and sandblasting will remove this where your chems might make them more active...I also don't believe in the stuff they sell in the can that needs no prep work....you just spray and it neutralizes rust so you can just prime...You also need to think that if you strip the paint to bare metal you need to not only prime and paint but also seal before doing so....PPG makes a great line of prep products das 1980 is a good sealer (18.95 quart) . also look at the kind of paint that you want to use, this will help determine what kind of primer and sealer to use....... I'm kind of new to this hot line so anybody jump in if I'm wrong.....
Vern Heywood replied back: The eight different paint jobs are a a real PITA now, but it has done a great job of preserving the vehicle. I believe he only reason I have the cancer around the wheel wells is because moisture became trapped between the flares and the body. While there are plenty of layers of paint on the top of the flare, there was nothing blocking the moisture being splashed up from the tires.
Unfortunately, sandblasting is not an option. HOA has a thing about compressors and other loud noises, and while I could farm it out, that would kind of defeat the purpose of having a "project" vehicle. I am doing small sections of the stripper at a time and then thoroughly cleaning and applying a primer/sealer before I go on to the next section. I will probably have to farm out the repair of the cancer around the wheel well, though. Unless my welding skills greatly improve in the next week or so. I'm stubborn...not stupid. Ok...not THAT stupid! ;:)
Mitch Utsey wrote: I would not sand blast, as the sand is too coarse and heavy. Plastic media or bead blasting, maybe. If it is a frame off, take the body to a professional stripper, it will run about the same price as buying the good stuff and doing it yourself. If it is not a frame off, you can take it to a professional shop and have it media blasted. This will run a little bit more than do it yourself, but it is done with a material that is not readily available to most people. I would not, however, go with walnut shell blasting, as that leaves a thin coating of oil that has to be removed.
I would seal it no matter what, so that you do not have to worry about the paint underneath.
Jerry Stoper wrote: To keep moisture out of the frame and some inside hidden areas, I thought of using the spray can expanding foam insulation sold for sealing up houses. Its waterproof, and seals tight. Does anyone have any thought on this idea?
Ben Page wrote: It doesn't bond tight enough to metal to guarantee that it is waterproof. Use a good etcher, then spray on body schutz.
Jeff Gent wrote: My rigs PO used this stuff (spray foam) as a cheap substitute for Bondo for the
rotting out edges of the rear fenders. He just sprayed it in then used a belt sander to bring it smooth with the outer surface. Lazy bastard. This stuff works very nicely around the house (watch out for it to expand too much and warp things) but I would not use it in a rig. It seems far to pourous to me and will likely hold water next to the steel and end up accelerating the rust.
Brad wrote: I've been using Extend rust inhibitor in aerosol form. I take off the spray valve and replace it with a WD40 valve that accepts the little red 6"x 1/16" directional straw. I just stick the straw in all the tight places and spray away with pin point accuracy.
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Wayne E LaMothe wrote: I have noticed in the gallery that some of the pickemups have steps on the box in front of the rear fender and behind the cab. Was this stock and, id so, where can I find replacements. I would suspect that they are one of the first things to go on a work truck due to their vulnerability. I did not find them listed in Carl's or Barry's information.
Richard Grover wrote: They were stock. I think you'll have to find some in a salvage yard or from someone who is parting out a truck. I've never seen any replicas. I suggested to Classic Enterprises that rear fenders and steps might sell well.
A previous owner of my Willys fabricated some steps out of diamond plate. I just pulled one off Monday night to fabricate a new mount for it.
James Roney wrote: STOCK??? What years? I've never seen them on anything with round fenders. I've seen lots on the older 49-51's.
Is this truly correct for a 53? Crap...I thought I was through collecting parts for mine. Anyone out there with pictures???
Richard Grover wrote: I may have been wrong on this. I have seen the stock steps on some trucks, but I don't know the exact years. I just checked the famous model identification poster and Paul Barry's restoration guide to find several examples of pre-1950 trucks with steps and several post 1950 trucks without steps.
The break point is unclear. There is a picture of a 1950 truck with peaked fenders and steps in Paul's book. There a picture on the poster of the model 7-73 1950-51 without the steps.
Help! Someone... anyone with a clean stock truck, clue us in (those with mutilated trucks) regarding the steps.
Kravitzd wrote: Friends, My 55 has no steps, and doesn't look awkward without them. All the paint
matches down there, though there are "orphan" screw holes where something could have been bolted on.
I did immediately notice the 49(?) pickup that Paul Barry was hauling (on the way to the Reunion) "Ole Yeller," did in fact have them, albeit in very poor shape. If you squint, you never miss em.
Frank Sanborn wrote: The photo of the truck in your gallery in spot B-8 has the steps on it in perfect condition. I took a detail shot of the steps for my own curiosity when I saw them. I can send a scan of it if you want to post it.
Matt Hasty wrote: My '54 never had any steps nor mounts, but the '50 I just picked up does. There are frame stickie-outies that slide into a channel in the bottom of the step with a bolt that secures. My guess is the change happened somewhere between those years.
Matt Phillimore wrote: I thought they were done away with about the same time as the peaked fenders were added...But we all know how much of a collage these trucks can be. And since the frames and stuff are all virtually identical, the steps would be an easy add on to any truck. And they, at least to me, would have been a nice feature to have had.
Chris Croyle wrote: I dug up an old e-mail that I believe I sent to "Willys America" back in March and here is what they wrote:
Chris Croyle wrote: "Do you sell the side step that fits behind the cab (located under spare tire and the opposite side of the spare tire) for my '61 Willys 4wd L6-226? If you do, how much for each step?"
Reply to Chris Croyle from Paul: "those steps were only on the 47-49 models, get our catalog!" (I never did buy that catalog!) Maybe someone has this catalog from "Willys America".
Frank Wood wrote: Noooooooooo Dan, mine never had them. Seems like a read somewhere that 1949 or 50 was the last year. Maybe they were dropped when the grill was changed. They do look handy. Back when I found that guy that wanted to make wooden fenders, I actually had the thought that wooden running boards might be a nice little custom addition. How's your woodworking Dan? Better than your wrench wrestling?
Jerry Adams wrote: Ackerson's "Standard Catalog of 4X4's" shows a picture of a 1947 that clearly shows the step. He doesn't have a picture for the '48, '49, or '50 models, but he does include a photo of a '51. It is a bit dark, but I can make out what appears to be a sort of short running board that extends from the front fender bay to about half the width of the door, and there is no hint of a step near the rear fender. The step does not appear in any other photo, so I would say that it went away for good by '51, at least as a factory standard item. It may have been available as an option though.
Richard Grover wrote: About those steps, I think we came to the conclusion a couple of weeks ago in a discussion here, that they were on all trucks up until the style changes in 1950. We found one truck that was later than 50 with steps, but we couldn't determine if they were stock or not. It would be easy to take some steps from an older truck and put them on your 52, all you need is a donor. Somebody said he saw a couple of parts trucks in Colorado, but that's too far away for me (in Arizona) so I bet it's too far for you too.
Mark Peterson wrote: Thanks for the info on the steps. A guy in Minneapolis told me that he didn't see a lot of these steps on the pickups because they got banged up easily or rusted through. I like your version better - it seems to make more sense that they didn't offer them after 1950. Mark Peterson
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PICKUP TAIL LIGHTS
Mark Peterson wrote: Do you happen to know if Willys pickups came stock with tail lights. I put on my own lights but they're in the way of where the PTO comes out. Mark Peterson.
Rick Stivers wrote: Mark, After you asked this question I went looking for an answer. Here's what I found. There is a couple of pictures of Bernie Daily's truck at Rick Grovers Gallery: http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/galhtml/e2.html These pictures seem to show a truck with double tail lights. I've never seen this setup before but that doesn't mean it isn't stock. Chris Croyle"s truck at: http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/galhtml/d4.html is setup like my truck. The tail lights are mounted on a simple L bracket to the side of the frame. The only problem with my truck is that one bracket is forward and one is backwards. The brackets fit equally well both ways so which way is right? Does anyone know for sure?
Matt Phillimore wrote: On every wiring diagram for these trucks I've ever seen, there's only one tail light. I also looked at one this summer, a 48 with no modifications with the exception of a tractor type seat and a lot of rust. Even still had the old floormats, or remnants, at least. It had one taillight on the drivers side, on a bracket sticking off the frame a few inches.
Jerry Stoper wrote: My 1947 Wagon only has one taillight mounted on the left
David Macbeth wrote: I looked up the tail light issue in my service manual and it shows two tail lights on all models of pickups and wagons. Every pickup I have owned (5) has had a tail light on both sides of the frame. The bracket is mounted like an L with the bottom of the letter pointing to the rear. Some had a V shaped bracket with both ends of the V mounted to the frame.
Brad wrote: Dave, I think 46 through 49 had one tail light on the left side. My 49 wagon's tail light is mounted on a bracket that pivots out when the tail gate is down so the light can still be seen.
Richard Grover wrote: As I recall, the 48 owner's manual that I have shows only one tail light. Vehicle safety standards have changed in the last 50 years. Sometime before the mid-50's (Service manual published in 1956), Willys went to two tail lights. In every state that I have ever lived, two tail lights are required. Most one tail light Willys were converted to two tail lights about 45 years ago. Virtually all Willys have two tail lights, the only exception would be one that hasn't been on the road in many many years. Something like this is where you should not try to be stock. If you make it stock, you park it in a museum. If you want to drive it, put two on.
Sean Kerns wrote: David, et al, I know that at some point, it was okay to have only one tail-light. My '48 CJ-2A came with only one, and a second was optional. Actually, mine has 4 now, since someone added a directional kit later. The wiring diagram in my '48 service manual shows only one. In a later (1960) version, there are some diagrams for the -3B and the newer models (CJ-5's and so forth), and they have two. I don't know what the cutoff year was for single tail-lights. I have seen some '30's and early '40's cars with only one.
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BEWARE OF SOME SILICONE
Ben Page wrote: Some silicone products contain a form of acid which enables them to bond to surfaces. Restorers should be aware that sealing cracks with normal clear type household silicone is not a wise decision. In the paint and body trade there are products made for this type of application. The ones with the highest reputation are made by Sikaflex and do not effect paint finishes that are placed over them. Hope this helps.
Jerry Adams wrote: The original formulation for "RTV" or Room Temperature Vulcanizing Silicon Rubber liberated acetic acid as it cured. By the way, it required water to initiate the chemical reaction that caused polymerization, which is why it did not harden in the tube. When the RTV came in contact with the air, the atmospheric moisture caused the chemistry to "start to happen," liberating acetic acid in the process. I worked in a chem lab once upon a time, and we could not use RTV around electronics because of the corrosive action of the acetic acid. There were silicon rubbers back then (in the late 1960's) that did not use moisture in the polymerization process which were developed specifically for use around electronics or other locations where you did not want the acid.
The acid was not present to etch the surface of the substrate, but rather was a by-product of the polymerization of the rubber into a solid form. Because the water-reacting RTV is much simpler to use, and some of the catalysts for the other forms of silicon rubber are rather toxic, most of the "silicon sealers" sold for household use are the type that liberate acetic acid. Note that acetic acid is the chemical that makes vinegar sour, so it is relatively benign as long as you keep it out of your eyes, and is deemed safe for public use. Yes, the acetic acid will indeed cause corrosion, and is definitely hard on copper and copper bearing alloys, such as the traces on printed circuit boards. Also, it is impossible to get paint to bond to silicon rubber, so be careful when using it to not get it on anything you want to paint.
A small trick- Denatured alcohol will remove cured silicon rubber from almost any surface. Saturate a cotton swab with alcohol, and rub gently, letting the alcohol work. Keep the swab moist with alcohol, and the rubber will come off.
Ben Page wrote: So now that you guys have heard the official chemical explanation<phew>-you'll realise why good auto painters won't go near the stuff!! Especially if someone has used it around their windscreen or something similar. I've seen paint jobs react and spoil the whole thing. It's bloody heartbreaking!! So use Sikaflex guys. As an aside. Ever considered this? You spend hours that really should be calculated in years, to plan and restore your Jeep (especially if you wish to increase its price and value by restoring it to original) not to count the $ - and the only thing that everyone notices is the final bodywork and paint finish. Therefore, is it worth spending equally the number of hours on very good panel preparation and high quality paint finish? You betcha!!
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ROTISSERIE FOR BODIES
? wrote: As for turning it, I have seen a rotisserie setup in some classic car mag and have thought too of building one. I would think that tying into the frame mounting points and coming up to a pivot point just above the center of gravity (good luck figuring out where that is) would give a stable mechanism. It wouldn't tend to flop over and would be supported as intended. You could also tie into the bolt holes for the fenders and the rear window/tailgate. Unless it's mighty beefy, you might want to move it and then set it up on the rotisserie, which would also avoid the height problem.
Rick Stivers wrote: When I went the swap meet in Pomona a few months back, I saw a device that you drove the car onto, then bolted it to the tires and activated a crank. It would then roll the vehicle over onto it's side for maintenance. I thought at the time that it would put too much stress on the suspension and cause your fluids to go places they shouldn't, so I wasn't overly impressed. Looking back though, a modified version of this, for working on a bare body would be great. It consisted of 4 metal tubes, two at each wheel. The tubes ran straight across the bottom of the car and curved up on one side of the car about 3 feet. If you build a reinforced tubing frame and bolted it to the bottom of the body I think it would work. The tubes coming up the side would have to curve to about a 75 degree angle to the ground to reduce the stress on the body mounts. Once bolted into place you could roll it onto it's side and work away. Then unbolt it, turn it around bolt it back on and get those difficult or unseen spots. It might be more work than it's worth but it's a idea.
Brad wrote: I've just finished up epoxy priming (after chemically stripping) the body of my 49 SW. I now want to attack the under side of the body and work on the frame/ drive train. I'm thinking that the best way is to separate the body from the frame and mounting it on some type of (homemade) tiltable dolly that will allow me to push the body outside of my garage and roll it on it's side for proper blasting and painting. it will have to be low to the ground to clear the garage doors so I think the standard rotisserie won't work.
I can make a rectangular frame with wheels that will have three 70 degree angled uprights on one side. The body will be securely bolted to the frame while it is rolled on it's side (the uprights will touch the ground first thus protecting the downward side of the body. My question is. Has anybody tried anything remotely like this? is there a better/ easier method? Any idea on how much the core body weight is (minus doors, glass, upper, lower tail gate, front nose etc. Your advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
Ben Page wrote: Yes. It's a common restoration tool. Most have a triangular frame at each end with a 2 1/2 inch piece of round tube welded to the apex of the frame. Inside the tube goes a piece of pipe that is either: A. Attached to a frame that bolts onto the front and rear of your chassis. B. Or can have two RHS pieces attached to it which go under the body and attach to the body mounting points. You can then rotate the frame completely around and work on your chassis or the body in any position.
The inner pipe and the outer tube generally have about four holes drilled in them so you can locate the frame at any angle by inserting a bolt into the appropriate holes. Have I been clear enough in my explanation?.
If you need to get it outside (and have minimum clearance)----you remove the two end triangles and use various means (manpower, trolley jacks, or axles carriers) to move it outside then just slide the triangles onto the end again and stand them up! Has this helped?
PS. The same piece of equipment can be used to lay doors, bonnets (hoods to you), valance panels, trays etc across for the preparation of panel work and painting.
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DISPOSABLE PAINT SPRAYER
Tom Lee wrote: Hello Willys fans, I want to tell you about a new product I found at NAPA that I really like. It's called the PREVAL Spray Gun, The Professional Portable Sprayer. It's like a rattle can without the rattle, with a glass container that screws to the bottom. You mix your own paint in the glass container. I just finished painting my new wheels for my 2a with very professional results. The spray pattern is similar to the high volume low pressure (HVLP or is it LPHV) with VERY LITTLE overspray. And get this, it's five bucks! No cleaning the gun, untangling the air hose, firing up the compressor.
? wrote: Now you've really got my interest! Tell me, where does this thing get the pressure for the spray? Is it a throw away thing or reusable?
Tom wrote: Its a pressurized can like a rattle can but no rattle. You can clean the glass paint bowl for reuse and buy a replacement pressure can for 4$ or you can buy the whole new deal for 5$.
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WIPERS DON'T WORK
Kevin Jolly wrote: This is an Excellent list! I am new to the list and have a '62 4wd wagon. Had about one year so far. Not much history was available from the family that I bought from so I am lacking in any local source for WILLYS specific info. Recently had a huge rainstorm and tried to use wipers (worked last spring). Nothing. Pulled over and stuck my head up under the dash....Could see that the wiper motor was still cranking and actuating the cable to turn the wipers but the tension must not be tight enough...Can you guys offer any helpful hints to solving this minor problem?
William A Tomlinson wrote: Here it is from the original willys manual, loosen the cable tensioner lock nut under the tensioner bracket, under the dash on cowl. then the cables should automatically take up slack in cables, in some case it may be necessary to tap the stud lightly to unseat the lockwasher located between the tensioner bracket and the case, then pry the tensioner bracket slightly outward to take up the slack, then retighten the lock nut firmly
Ben Page wrote: Kevin, It's a bit hard for me to diagnose the problem without more info mate<grin Start from these things. If the system is original with a vacuum motor and cables, then have a look at my following questions. If the system has been "modified". Ignore all that follows.
1. Are the arms locking onto the stems?
2. Are the stems moving?
3. If the stems aren't moving, are any of the lines (cables) broken?
4. If the cables are intact, are any of the pulleys jammed?
Hope this helps a bit.
Jeffrey Gent wrote: This sounds like how I found my rig setup when I first got it. If memory serves I found an adjustment mechanism for the cable tension that was fairly straight forward and things worked nicely after that, so much so that changing out the vacuum wiper motor is way at the bottom of the list, I even like how the speed changes with different throttle settings. Rereading your message...are your cables moving but the wipers not? Mine moved but erratically as the backlash in the cable was taken up. If yours aren't moving at all you may have a problem at the wiper posts.
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Richard Grover wrote: Luke, I'd like to hear more about the dump bed. I have been toying with the idea of a dump bed for a couple of years, but I have much more critical things to spend my money on for now. There is a company in TX that makes dump bed kits for modern pickups that will sell components, but I'd have to do quite a bit of fabrication myself. Why do I want a dump bed? Well I use my Willys as a homeowner's work truck. That includes several trips a year to the dump hauling tree trimming or such. After I had been dreaming of a dump bed for a while, I was unloading about a ton of thorny branches by hand, when a pickup truck pulled in next to me, tipped the bed and drove away! I stopped him and talked to him. His truck had been converted locally by a previous owner. I know it's not very practical in $$/use, but wouldn't it be a hoot!
Where is this junk yard?
And as the other Rick said, the weird axle is a Timken. Used in the early years. It's a heavy axle. I think it is stronger than a Dana 44, but much harder to work on, and hard to find parts for (kind of like a Dana 53). If I have to replace mine, I think I'll go for a 60.
Theodore J Parshall wrote: One of the FC170s that I have has a dump bed on it. The hydro pump is run from the PTO port on the transfer case. The dump feature was a dealer installation per the guy I bought it from - he was the second owner. I am not very fond of the installation, however. Basically, there is a channel iron frame installed under the box, separate from, but in the same location as, the original frame. The net affect is that the box is about 5" higher than stock. The truck is not runnable so I do not know dump angle, etc. I can look into more specifics if you wish.
LUKE SCHULZE wrote: Rick- The dump bed Willys is down in northern PA, I am not sure if the bed is powered off of the PTO port or not, it does have the Timken axle and MASSIVE spring packs. Next time I'm down there I'll look it over better and mabey get some picts of it. The jeep graveyard I found is up here is western NY...its got all kinds of strange old Willys, pickups, cab overs, a few flat fenders and other strange things...
I really like your web page...Great Job! There's all kinds of useful stuff there...I'm now going to have to go back out and look at all the Willys again, now that I know more:)
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Jerry Hunnicutt wrote: What are the advantages of using epoxy primer over regular primer? Does using the epoxy primer limit you on the type of paint that can be applied over it? Does anyone know?
Brad wrote: The epoxy primer is a sealer while standard primer is porous. Epoxy primer protects the surface against rust from forming under the primer. Most epoxy primers are compatible with major automotive paints.
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FILLER OVER PRIMER
Frank Wood wrote: Now that Merl has me fired up to do my own body work, thanks Merl, I'm wondering about putting plastic filler over primer. An earlier post mentioned this and I've read somewhere that this can be done but you have to have the right stuff. I always thought you had to slap the filler on bare metal and prime and paint ASAP. Filler over primer would suit my style better as I'm tackling this project at a snails pace. I could get the cab blasted and primed, then do the filler work myself at a snails pace, then Merl could paint it for me. Is putting filler over primer OK, as good as on bare metal, or just mediocre? I'm OK with OK, but not mediocre. Media blast, epoxy primer of some sort, plastic filler, and a Merl paint job. What do ya think?
Merl wrote: Man, haven't even filled a paint gun yet and I'm already getting business <g>. I've always put filler directly on the metal, but you've brought up a very good question... and I don't know the answer. Its got to be a matter of adhesion though, if the primer/sealer has really good adhesion and the filler isn't too thick I'd think it'd be fine. I know you'd need to rough up the primer prior to application of the filler, probably causing at least a little scratch through to the metal. Side note on painting at home, I'm now equipped with a compressor (Sears $289 - oil-free, 110V, 5.5HP, 30 gallon), and a new paint gun (on sale at Harbor Freight $89, regular $129 - HVLP, gun separate from the two quart pressurized cup). I know I went cheap on the gun, but its supposed to be the top of the line Central Pneumatic, so we'll see how it does. Got the compressor unboxed and tried it out today. It seemed to do fine, a little louder than I'd expected, makes the lights dim when the compressor kicks on. I was a little surprised at the amount of water that accumulated in the tank with just the initial fill, makes me wonder if there was already water in the tank. I like this rig so far though, and it was a better deal than the Campbell-Hausfeld at HF (oil-free vs. not, 30 gallon vs. 25, 5.5hp vs. 5.0, cheaper as well). Still need to get a filter or two, respirator, primer and paint...then I'm set! (or am I forgetting something?)
Ben Page wrote: Yep, filler can be used over primer. It's common practice. Rub your primer down with 600 wet and dry (always use wet) prior to using your filler.
Ronald L. Cook wrote: Merl--You should also get a water separator in that air line, or the water from your compressor will end up on your surface you are trying to paint. Paint won't stick well to water. A little splatter of water right in the center of the hood would really ruin an otherwise good day. Been there, done that--
Ben Page wrote: Hear, hear. If you plan to use air tools you'll also need a little in-line oiler.
Vern Stark wrote: Regarding some recent questions about body filler over paint - I've never tried any Bondo-type fillers that way but I have had excellent results using automotive spot putty over paint. It is designed to be used that way. It certainly handles differently, especially in drying time. Thin layers are a must, so it can't be applied in my favorite semi-structural mode like Bondo. Somebody else was talking about water in an air compressor tank when spraying. A water seperator is almost essential. If at all possible, install it remotely away from the tank with at least 20-feet of hose. This lets the hot air cool and the water condenses that much better. It makes a huge difference. Something I found the hard way while spraying in cool weather - Water drops were slowly forming on my respirator and dropping on my work. I drained the tank, the water seperator, cleared the lines, nothing made any difference. I did not discover the cause until I decided to call it a day and took off my respirator. Hope this saves you some frustration.
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Matt Phillimore wrote: I'm slowly getting parts ready for re-assemblyor the 48 Pickup, and will shortly be needing to find the following, if anyone has a good supplier they can point me to, I'd appreciate it. The rubber(?) body to frame mount bushings (probably not the right term, but) and for between fenders and cab/bed Also, does anyone have an idea what these things will cost me?
Richard Grover wrote: The body mounts are easy. Any Jeep shop will have some that work. I got a set of about a dozen a couple of years ago ($25?). My truck took 8(?). You can get rubber or urethane. I'll let others debate the advantages of each. I'd guess the cross member and the oil bath will be salvage items. If you don't have someplace near you, try Willys specialty places like Walck's, Willys Mpls, or Willys Works. I've gotten stuff from each of them. (Addresses on my web page)
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ONE-PIECE WINDSHIELD RUBBER
Mark_Sanders wrote: Hey Chris - I may have beat you on price for the new windshield install, but it doesn't sound like mine went nearly as smooth as yours. After three hours in the raw wind, we (2 installers and me) finally got the damn thing in tight...maybe too tight! They said that the rubber was slightly too large - a little too much rubber in the corners. I think they are right because the finished corners "pucker" a little, that is they don't lie perfectly flat like the horizontal and vertical runs. I suspect the after-market glass may have been a little large also.
Bottom line: I doesn't look like I'm going to get your lifetime leak warranty. :-( I guess this illustrates some of the frustrations of after-market anything! What I'm really worried about is water getting into the locking channel at the "puckering" corners (where the rubber doesn't lay flat) and causing all sorts of mischief.
I'm curious if you had any of the same experiences, and what you did to assure yourself (other than accept the warranty!). I know we both got our rubber from Walck's. Could he be using a new supplier? Might the rubber be manufactured in China?!? How long ago did you do yours?
Tom Lee wrote: I have purchased rubber products from Carl, specifically, the windshield frame seal, cowl seal and floor mats and have been less than happy with them. They are obvious repros. Probably Asian made. Alot of this stuff is. They fit, after a fight, but it is never a good fit. I don't think there are better pieces available. And I still think Carl is the best source for these parts and if there were better parts available, Carl would have them.
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REAR FENDER SUPPORTS
Frank Wood wrote: Mark, Willys America makes those things and sells them. Don't know what they charge.
BTW, I took some photos of that 48 pickup at Pecan Plantation near Walberg,TX. I'll scan them someday. The running boards were in real bad shape. He said he had just sold it(early november). Didn't ask how much. HoHOHo
Matt Phillimore wrote: What are "rear fender stabilizer rods"? I don't have anything that would fit that descripotion. And did they have these in 48 or is it what they did when they got rid of the little rear steps?
Rick Stivers wrote: Matt, On the front and rear of the fenders of my truck there is a steel rod that runs from the frame to a hole in the bottom outside edge of the fender. The rods are threaded on each end, are fully adjustable and would actually be pretty easy to make. If you have the holes for them and would like to have a set, I would be happy to try and make you a set for Christmas. Anybody else need a set.
Matt Phillimore wrote: Is that to the outside edge on the front or back of the fender? If front, I'll have the steps rebuilt anyway, but if it's the back, maybe I need to make myself some.
Rick Stivers wrote: OK Matt, Let's try again. Inside of the rear fenders (On my 62 pickup). At both the front and rear of each fender is a support rod. This rod runs from the frame to the outside edge of the fender to give it support and prevent it from wobbling. If you have the step I believe the forward support rod would run through both the fender and the step. The support rod may have been added when the step was removed but I can see where it would add a lot of support to the step and fender. All four rods are different so that each rod only fits its own location. The proper bend is important to prevent the tires from rubbing. I have always thought these where stock but now you have me wondering. Let me know if you need some. I'm on leave this week so I would be happy to make you a set.
Matt Phillimore wrote: My fenders don't have any holes in the back of them to bolt anything to, so I'm guessing that there aren't supposed to be any of these stabilizers. Oh, and I'm not down that way too often, but Ill keep that in mind. But if you're ever in the Manhattan area ...I don't know if you ever are, but we could swap stories up here too. (but I don't even have a whole frame yet)
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Rick Stivers wrote: I also found some door weather stripping that cost about $14 per door. It looks like the same stuff that is currently on my truck (except that it isn't rotted away). Has anybody out there tried either of these? It would be nice to keep the water and the wind out of my truck.
Tom Jacoby wrote: Rick, I bought the door weather stripping from JCW. It appears to have the exact same cross section as the old, rotten stuff on my '61. Comes with adhesive, too. I haven't applied it yet, as the Willys is still waiting on the body shop.
Rick Stivers wrote: Tom, Can you give me the exact part number you used when you ordered it. There are a couple of different ones that look like they would work but there isn't enough of mine left to tell for sure which one I should order.
Tom Jacoby wrote: I'm pretty sure that it is 81nf8835t, $8.99 for 8 feet. On a side-by-side comparison with the old rubber, there's virtually no difference.
I've also found that JCW's 81nf2465n weather-strip with built-in lock-strip ($22.95 for 16 feet) is an "exact" replacement for the side window weather-strip on my Utility Delivery Parkway conversion. I will confirm the above part numbers tomorrow after I've had a chance to check my records at home.
Tom Jacoby wrote: Rick, I checked - 81nf8835t is the correct catalog number for door weather-strip for my '61. The correct side window weather-strip is 81nf076b. (For anyone who's not familiar with JC Whitney, the alpha characters in the third and fourth position of the catalog number indicate the catalog edition and do change.)
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Rick Stivers wrote: While on the subject of water in my truck, is anybody else having trouble with water coming in through the chrome trim holes? Most of the earlier trucks didn't have the side trim but mine does and the scissors style holding clips allow water to come right in when it rains. I have thought about sealing them up with a sealant but I think there must be a better way. I'm open to suggestions and so is my truck. :-)
Ron Cox wrote: Rick, There is some trim putty available that is the consistency of play-dough. You just form a bead and wrap the bead around the hole and then put your chrome on and press it into place. The seal keeps water out. I just found out about it from a neighbor. If you want, the next time I go over there I will find a name for you. Surely a good auto paint supplier will know what it is.
Rick Stivers wrote: Ron, I believe the stuff you are referring to is called body putty. I tried it on one of my chrome pieces after you suggested it, but the scissors style clip rips it out from around the hole when you put it in. I also tried installing an O ring on the clip but the crisscross design still allows water in. I think I going to have to find anther style of clip.
Scott Little wrote: When I pulled the chrome pieces off my parts truck the putty you are referring to had been pinched into place by hand pretty much encasing the entire scissors clip and sealing the hole at the same time. Hope this helps.
Rick Stivers wrote: OK, I think I've got the picture now. I need to pinch a ball of putty onto the clip, at and behind the scissors portion instead of on the panel, right? It looks like this will take a pretty large glob of putty to insure sealing. Was there a lot of putty on your clips? Ron and Scott, Thanks for the help.
Scott Little wrote: Yes it was a pretty good little gob of putty. I guess I should do the same thing since reinstalling the chrome on the other truck. My to do list is already way too long.
Ron Cox wrote: Rick, Try putting it on the crome piece around the scissors style clip. It should work that way without being ripped off.
Ted Dunlap wrote: If you tell the guys at the paint shop you want some dum dum they will know what you are talking about. It comes in white and black.
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Rick Stivers wrote: I spent some free time today looking through my JCW catalog and found some universal windshield rubber. It says it is designed to replace old, hard to find window seals. It comes in a 16' length and would have to be sealed where the ends meet at the bottom but the price is only $26. Has anyone tried this stuff before? It looks like it would also work great on side and rear windows. It uses a European style locking rubber like my BMW and Opel used when I was in Germany. I don't want to spend the big bucks for the original windshield rubber until I'm ready to rebuild the truck completely in about 3 years. Besides I keep hearing complaints about how poorly the original seals fit. My current windshield rubber is so dry rotted the water just runs right through. Does anyone know the thickness of the windshield? I'm hoping one of you guys have one out so it can be measured.
Merl wrote: On the JCW windshield rubber... I bought the CJ3A windshield rubber from JCW, it was supposed to have the T slot in the main gasket with a 'T' shaped insert. I tried and tried to make it fit, then finally took the whole thing to a windshield shop for installation. They couldn't get it to fit either. After closer inspection they said that it was defective and it didn't have the horizontal part of the slot in the main gasket...thats why the insert wouldn't stay in place. I had to buy a different sort of universal gasket from them for them to be able to install it. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't even bother with the JCW gasket, the one I've got now looks good, works well, and since I'm not doing a correct restoration it doesn't make any difference anyhow since the untrained eye would never be able to tell anyway.
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SHIFTER DIAGRAM DECALS
Tom Jacoby wrote: I believe that most of the Willys parts suppliers will sell you a glove box decal that shows the shift pattern. Walck's, The Jeepsterman, or Willys America should have it.
Robert Dabrowski wrote: Hi all, > In 62 wagon I have a two levelers transfer case. > Can you guys draw a diagram of positions for high/low, 4x4.
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Frank Wood wrote: Has anyone actually bought one of those replacement bed kits? $1600 is the cost for the unassembled, unpainted, predelivery version. I might buy one for $199.95. Rick in SA, Ron in KS, if you can make fender support rods surely you can make a bed too. What do ya say? Cheers, Frank
Richard Grover wrote: The beds are made by Precision Coachworks in Billerica MA and sold through several vendors, Willys America, Walck's, and etc. I talked to Precision and parts are available, so if you just need a tailgate, or a post pocket,...
Anna White wrote: Willys America sells the new beds all the marking are correct for just under $1600.00 we found them while surfing at www.willysamerica.com since my husband's soon to be Willys pickup also has a flat bed.
Matt Phillimore wrote: So Now I can buy bed parts, rather than the whole bed? Do they have a price list or anything? What's their number?
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Alan Tschirner wrote: I saw over the weekend that electric replacement wiper motors are the hot ticket. The last owner installed the cheap import wiper motors over the windshield and I would like to restore the original system. Are wiper arms still available? Is there an Anco part number for them? I am impressed with the tone of this list and you all should pat yourselves on the back for that tone. Thanks in advance, >>
Rick Stivers wrote: Alan, Do you still have all of the rest of your wiper system in the wagon. It should consist of:
2 wiper post assemblies with cables
2 cable tensioners
on/off control cable
If you have these parts it will be easy to put your wipers back in order. If you go to Rick Grovers web page you will find a number of suppliers for the original parts. If you don't have these parts they will probably be able to find them for you as well but it will cost you a bit more. I run mine off a vacuum motor and they work just fine. It did take me a while to figure out that if I cleaned and lubed the motor with automatic transmission fluid it would work well even in cold temperatures. If you still want to go electric, then there are also several companies out there on Rick's page that sell those as well. Welcome the list. I agree, it is a wonderful place to be and we all get along so well. :-)
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4 WHEEL DRIVE SCRIPT EMBLEM
Glenn Brooke wrote: Hi Gang, I've asked David Hatch (contact for our Columbian Parts Hunter) to check on Hood Script. He responded back that he would like a picture of this. I don't have one. Does anyone out there have an e-picture you could send me or him. Of course if you know of a stateside source, I'd be interested in that too.
Scott Little wrote: I got my emblems and horn button several years ago from the Jeepsterman, he's listed on Rick Grover's page. I don't think the emblems I got are original though, the picture that Mark posted shows the emblems are stamped, being hollow on the back side, I hope that description makes sense. The ones from the Jeepsterman are solid, ie., the back side is flat and smooth. They look just the same on the side you look at.
Bradley Ethington wrote: Jeff, Willys Jeep Obsolete Parts in Bradenton Fla. has these emblems for around $35 each. Sorry, I don't have his number.
Jeff wrote: Thanks for the info - I'll check them out. According to the Southwestern Bell online yellow pages, their info is (for anyone else one the list whose interested) 6110 17th Street E. Bradenton, FL 34203 (941)756-7757
David Hoelzeman wrote: I've visited and bought from them a couple of times. Real pleasant experience. Only thing I would suggest is double-check the prices with other dealers such as Walck's. The folks at Bradenton know what they have and are proud of it. He also doesn't like to part with something if it's the last one he has so he has something in stock for comparison. I found this out when I bought a clutch rod (fits between the frame and bell housing on my '50 truck). The first one I got was wrong and I sent him my old worn out one to match. He kept my old one (with my permission) for comparison purposes and sent me the only one he had - it looked like it was NOS when I received it.
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REPLACEMENT FLOOR PANELS
"Matt Phillimore wrote: Has anyone used he replacement floor pans for PU's from classic enterprises? How far forward do they replace the floorboard? I've been thinking about buying new floorpans, but mine are rotten almost all the way up to the cutout for the steering column and pedals, and I didn't know if the classic enterprises panels would cover that far, or how much other floorboard fixing I'd have to do on top of welding in the new panels from them. I'm just about finished with the firewall repairs, and deciding whether to fabricate myself or let someone else do the floorboard fab is quickly going to become an issue.
Timothy Branem wrote: I bought some floor pans for my SW from Classic Enterprises. They were exact replacements, however, they didn't cover as much area as I had hoped. The flat portion covered from the door sill edge to the beginning of the hump. The angle portion from the bend up towards the steering column only extended about two inches.Return to Menu
PAINTING A WAGON
Dan Mulholland wrote: So I have painted my 53 2 WD wagon. I now r a expert. Some of the experience:
1) Went to two or three paint suppliers and asked them if they worked with amateurs. One did and they were very helpful all the way through. Used PPG paints. My bodywork, so to speak, included replacement of the firewall (4 to 2 WD) and a partial floor (hump? what hump?). Also replaced one fender, quarter panels on the sides, extensive repairs/replacements around the tailgate, and lots of work on the tailgate proper.
I started with their best epoxy primer for bare metal. This included under the body too. After the epoxy came a lot of time filling and sanding. I then recoated with the epoxy primer, and did the rims, seat frames and window frames as well. In the PPG line of paint, I went with acrylic enamel to match the character of the car, avoiding a clear coat type of look. The next coat in the process is essentially a sanding primer- a high build primer.
Let me digress into the burning issues about spray guns. I did my chassis earlier with a import HVLP gravity feed gun from Harbor Freight. This is a truly wonderful tool. Compared to a conventional gun, I could see what I was doing and a much higher percentage of the paint went on the car. These guns come with nozzles from 1.4 to 2.0 mm and greater. A 1.4 mm gun is the most common of the cheap guns. It is fine for the expoxy and the topcoat, but the high build primers wand a 1.6 mm or larger nozzle. Trying to get the kit from harbor freight did not work- back ordered forever. So, I did the high build primer with my old cursed conventional gun and covered the world with paint. Probably got overspray on one of your cars! Anyway, HVLP guns are great, and with the 1.4 mm nozzle, ran easily on my compressor. My compressor is an older Wards, 2 HP, 20 gallon. Today's compressors of similar capacity are 5 HP because of horse inflation over the years. The HVLP guns have a regulator at the gun to drop the pressure.
So, I wet sanded with 400 grit paper on the primer; found some bodywork that needed more filling and work; did that till I couldn't stand it anymore; painted again on some areas that needed the filling. Sanded again. Then, I painted the whole car with a coat of epoxy primer for a seal coat and uniform color under the topcoat. Had a gray Willys. Now onto the stress of the topcoat, I'd been putting off the decision as to whether to attempt this myself for years. I decided to go for it, since the primer went on pretty well.
I wanted to match stock as much as I could. The paint store had the chips for the 53 wagon; I also brought in the spare tire bracket for matching. They were not close to the same color; I asked them to match the bracket. So, I have a gallon of blue and two quarts of off white-ready to go! After much setup of my "painting tent" with fans and lights, and cleaning with official cleaners- here goes! I masked off the windows and shot the interior, hood bottom, steering column and other misc parts first. If you are supposed to paint the second coat over the first with minimal time in between, and you have to be in the car to properly paint the fenders and other components-my ability to suspend myself over any wet surface is limited- what to do? Took Pamela's idea- I painted the interior except the floor; did the misc parts; did the interior except the floor again; then did the floor, misc parts, and floor again. I did not have a problem with the edge between floor and sides. Interior painting included inside of doors and door frames. I masked off around the doorframes on the outside.
I took a day off since I had to remask to shoot the exterior; 12 hours dry time recommended before masking. The windows have to be masked to prevent overspray on the interior. I did not cover the openings on the firewall, and some overspray resulted. I can remove it, I hope, with a little buffing. Used blue painters masking tape; too strong and left residue- pick up official car masking tape. Covered top with plastic and taped it on. Masked off side panels ( to be white, along with top). Used special corner tape for curves- from paint supplier- worked well. Masking takes a long time- 4 hours at least.
I have fenders on stands; grill and hood on sawhorses. Kept the fenders and hood covered with sheets until time to shoot.
Screw up courage; mix the paint; shoot onto
cardboard; go. Shooting order passenger door to side; rear; around car to finish; shoot
fenders and hood/ misc parts other side; shoot again.
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This page last edited 22 October, 2000